The journey to Salamanca or the wax
in all its states
(Guanajuato State)
The city history nor the several antique local traditions explain completely why the wax work has survived in Salamanca city, being present nowadays in the Paschal candles and candles of delicate flaked was as well as in the famous wax figures of the Salamantinian nativities.
Only the skill of the artisans that had raised this trade to the level of art allows us to understand it.The Pre-hispanic world knew the properties of the bee wax: the Taironas smiths from Colombia or the zapotecos from Monte Alban handled with the utmost ability the technique of the lost wax process. With the Spaniards, arrived to the new continent the use of the wax for lighting and in few time, the wax candles replaced the ocote (pine) torches. The success was such, that the local wax production had to be completed with importations from the Metropolis or from the “Indies” through the Manila Galleon. The candles were used also in the ceremonies of the new religion (in masses, processions, etc) and end became in a symbol of the christian faith.
In the XIXth century, the use of wax extended to the artistic field with portraits, medallions and also the ancestors of today’s souvenirs. Wax figures representing typical personages from Mexico of that time: The tlachiquero, the China Poblana, etc. There were given other popular uses to wax such as for the manufacture of toys or masks, but in these as in the other, the wax lost ground in favor of newer and more resistant materials. Nowadays, most part of the wax production is destined to liturgical purposes, but in some cities it is still used for artistic ends in some cities such as Salamanca, an antique settlement in the Bajío area.
La cera escamada.
Towards the end of the XIXth century appear in Salamanca flaked wax candles. It’s not known if it was as a consequence of a petition of the the augustinian friars of of the artisan guilds. What is documented, is that Francisco Ramírez Hollanda was who created the first decorated candle in 1878.
After a few trials with waxed paper, he created top shaped terra cotta molds to shape wax flower petals. Now a days, his great grandson, Ramón Ramírez López, still uses the same procedure: The molds are moistened in water, submerged in hot wax and then submerged again in cold water to separate the thin wax layer. With molds of different shapes, is possible to create a complete flower. There are other types of molds for leafs, garlands, spikes, filigranes or other religious motif. The wax “flakes” obtained are sticked with hot wax to the candles. In the case of the huge Paschal candles, the wax is sticked to a light metallic structure. The finished Paschal candle has the appearance of a gigantic white flower.
The art of the flaked wax was disseminated first in this region (Cortazar, neighbor state of San Luis Potosí). Today is known in all the Republic.
Since three years ago, the Salamanca artisans, organized in guilds, make offerings to the Señor del Hospital (Jesus of the Hospital) during nine days from the Corpus Christi thursday. Actually, the first day is for the smiths and the aluminum artisans; the second is for the bakers; the third for the merchants; the fourth for the weavers; the fifth for the butchers; the sixth for the bricklayers, builders and carpenters; the seventh for the shoemakers and photographers; the eight for the mechanics and the ninth for the farmers.
Each day, a procession integrated with members of the same guild, leaded by musicians, fireworks and mummers leaves from different points of the city towards the Parish of the Señor del Hospital. The members carry “coat racks” with flacked wax candles and Paschal lights, with different colors and motifs for each guild. The Paschal candles are offered to the Black Christ and to the Saints, the candles are put in lines through all the aisles. The light of the vitrals goes through the flaked wax revealing the delicacy of its motifs. A mass is celebrated later in the middle of a forest of white was. At night a “castillo” (pyrotechnic structure) is burnt and fireworks are launched.
Los nacimientos monumentales.
Another typical salamantin artistic expression is the making of wax figures for monumental nativities that are exhibited during Christmas time. According to tradition, in 1820 the Parish priest of Salamanca put a nativity on the window sill of his house, custom that was adopted by the salamantinian families. The figures were at the beginning of gilded wood –there were also fired clay figures painted as in Provence. Towards the end of the XIXth century, the Moreno family made wax figures for a Nativity that created a new tendency. Since then, many families dedicated to the production of these figures. Among which are the Quintanilla and the Villanueva, ancestors of renowned wax sculptors.
The creation of a figure requires lots of work, patience and precision. The heads, arms, legs and angel wings are obtained pouring hot wax -natural colored or dyed with cochineal- in plaster or clay molds. The animals -sheep, camels, etc.- are done with the same procedure. The artisans make their own molds. This is an extremely delicate work, the most difficult of all the process. One of the specialists in the subject is Don Bartolomé Hurtado, that uses to manufacture his molds with thin clay found in the riverbanks.
Before the wax hardens, the piece is modeled: legs or arms are bent, feathers are ruffled, eyes are inserted, faces wrinkled, hands holding accessories are closed. The next step is the drawing of eye brows, mouths and the painting -for example- of the angel wings. |
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The finished pieces are fixed with wire into a body of naked coral tree wood, which flexibility allows to give the figure the required posture for the rol it represents: sitting or kneeling virgin, angel blowing a trumpet, one of the three wise men descending from his camel, etc. Finally, the figures are dressed with starched clothes -to fix the cloth movement- and their “accessories” -baskets, sticks, belts, hats, jewelry, halos, - are added. Most of these are made in the workshop. Don Marco Miranda, one of the most recognized wax sculptors, says that his pupils “must learn all the crafts”, because the only thing he gets outside his workshop are the saints’ halos.
After an impressive amount of hours of careful work, a figure of 20 to 30 cm is obtained. It’s of great delicacy and is destined to be exhibited in one of the famous salamantinian monumental nativities. The faces, to which the wax confers luminosity and sweetness, are particularly beautiful. The nativities are set in a house room that is completely used. All are illuminated, some are animated or have music. The most represented scenes are the Annunciation, the voyage of the three wise men, Bethlehem’s grotto, the adoration of the magi. During a month and a half, the salamantinians kindly receive visitors from all the Republic that come to admire their creations.
The wax artisans work in general in their own house where a room is reserved for this activity. It’s very gratifying to attend to one of the steps of the creation of a figure. The visit to the wax workshops is no doubt reason enough to visit Salamanca, but there is more to see in this city. The two courtyards in the Fray Juan of Sahagún ex convent and the eleven exceptional baroque altarpieces of the XVIIIth century of the San Agustín Church deserve by themselves the voyage to Salamanca, also the antique Parish with its magnificent churrigueresque facade. The touching temple of the indigenous town of Santa María de Nativitas, now a district of Salamanca city, with its naive facade and enormous gargoyle must be visited also.
Without being a touristic city -it is more known for its refinery- Salamanca has many touristic attractions, old mansions, squares, chapels and forgotten corners, that may be discovered walking by the streets, savoring a delicious “pasta de nieve” (ice cream paste) or a delicious bread with a strange name bought in one of the traditional bakeries.
How to get to Salamanca:
- By car: Take the México - Querétaro - Irapuato - León highway.
- By public transport: The buses to Salamanca leave from the Cien Metros Bus Central in México City. (Buses from the ETN line have 10 departures per day. It’s a 4’15’’ ride.)
Where to eat and sleep in Salamanca:
There are many hotels in Salamanca. The rooms in the superior florrs of the hotel “El Monte” have a nice view of the ex augustinian Convent and of the Señor del Hospital Parish.
Salamanca is a big city, there are many good restaurants from which the visitor may choose.
The restaurant of the Trevi Hotel (In the corner of Hidalgo and Albino García streets) offers an excellent buffet for breakfast.
You have to taste the “paste de nieve” (ice cream paste) which receipt is secret (you may recognize the flavor of milk, nuts and vanilla but, what else it has?). It is sold in Cuco a traditional ice cream shops in street Revolución # 108.
Bibliography:
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La cera en México. Arte e Historia. Banamex. 1994
- Los agustinos, aquellos misioneros hacendados. Diego de Basalenque. Conaculta. 1998.
References:
Flaked Wax:
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VEDESA (Velas Decorativas de Salamanca). Dueño del taller: Ramón Ramírez López. vedesa@prodigy.net.mx
Wax Figures:
We visited three workshops but there are more (for further information visit the Tourism Office of Salamanca):
- Taller de Don Bartolomé Hurtado Ojeda.
- Taller de Don Marco A. Miranda.
Tel: 01 (464) 647 18 82.
- Taller de Doña Velía Villanueva.
Velialbavi04@hotmail.com
Guild’s Celebration (Corpus Christi):
The Tourism Office of Salamanca gives information about the organization of this celebration which coincides with the Salamantinidad’s Week.
Monumental Nativities:
The Tourism Office of Salamanca distributes a brochure with the addresses of the houses where the monumental nativities are shown (from december 16th to february 2nd). In 2007 it was possible to visit 12 nativities.
Secretaría de turismo de Guanajuato.
Municipio de Salamanca.
Enciclopedia de los Municipios de México, Salamanca.
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