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San Andrés Mixquic

Celebration of Día de Muertos
(All Souls’ Day) in San Andrés Mixquic

(México City)

Yo lo pregunto

Yo Netzahualcoyotl lo pregunto:
¿Acaso de veras se vive con raíz en la tierra?
Nada es para siempre en la tierra:
Sólo un poco aquí.
Aunque sea de jade se quiebra,
aunque sea de oro se rompe,
aunque sea plumaje de quetzal se desgarra.
No para siempre en la tierra:
sólo un poco aquí.

(Netzahualcoyotl.)

(I ask/ I Netzahualcoyotl ask it:/ Do we really live rooted in the earth?/ Nothing lasts forever on the earth:/ Just a little here./ Even if it is jade it cracks,/even if it is gold it breaks,/even if it is quetzal plumage it tears./Not forever in the earth:/Just a little here./ Netzahualcoyotl.)

Mixquic, that means “in the mezquite (tree from arid lands) or in the mezquital”, is one of the most visited places during Día de Muertos (All Soul’s Day). This is because itss celebration is very attached to the tradition, besides of the merry town fair where a huge variety of mexican snacks (including the traditional small town bread) are sold and there’s marichi music and comic representations alluding death.

The preparations for the celebration begin since the middle of October in the houses of every family. In the entrance, a paper star with a light inside it is hung. This is kept until the 3th of November. This light is put with the intention of guiding with it the visiting souls. Days before the celebration, the house as well as the family graves are prepared: They have to be very clean and fresh so the souls may find rest and tranquility during their visit.

The Offerings.
They are for the souls that are visiting us, so they may feed with the essence and scent of the food that our families or loving ones prepare for them. The offering allows us to be near our death ones and dialogue with remembrance. It is meeting again with a ritual that invokes memory.

In the offerings are put several things that the death ones used to eat or drink: They are offered water to quench the thirst. Salt: As a purifying element that prevents the corruption of their body during the arrival and the journey back the next year. Candles: Where the flame means hope and helps as a guide to find their old places, besides of lighting their way back to their dwelling. (In some offerings, each candle represents a death person.) Copal (incense): As an element that sublimates the prayer, cleaning the place and frightening the evil spirits. The Flowers: With their colors and scent, they perfume and decorate the place during the souls stay.

With the petals of he yellow flower of the cempasuchil or zempoalxochitl (pot marigold) that in nahuatl means “twenty flower”, colorful and scented paths to the houses and offerings are outlined. It is believed that in the darkness the souls distinguish clearly the yellow color.

El Petate (the Matting): A bed or table to let the souls rest. El Pan de Muerto (Bread of the Dead) and sugar canes: They are related to the tzompantli (palisade with skulls) -the bread represents the defeated enemies skulls and the sugar canes are the stakes where these were put-.

There are many other things such as the picture of the death relative, a dish with mole, fruits, sugar skulls, tequila or other liquor -depending on his or her preferences-, a cross signaling the four cardinal points to prevent the soul from getting lost, purple and yellow paper chains that represent the union between life and death, papel picado (traditional cut paper), personal objects and/or things the deceased liked.

The celebration begins the 30th of October with the family offerings. At midnight, 12 bell strokes are given announcing the arrival of the children’s souls.

Día de todos los santos. (All Saints day)

The 1st of November is dedicated to los muertos chiquitos (the little death) because it’s believed that they come running first, because they are still children. An offering with white flowers and candles is prepared for them. The white represents the purity of the innocent ones. These offerings are decorated with little toys painted with bright colors; thus, when the souls of the little ones come, they may play as when they were alive. The dog Izcuintle, a toy that must be present in the children’s offerings, is the one that helps the souls to cross the Chiconauhuapan river, the last border of the Mictlán (Nahuatl underworld). It most be emphasized that all the elements in this offerings are of small scale and there must not be any element of an adult offering because it’s believed that the souls of the children may get angry or sad and won’t eat what’s offered to them.

In the morning of the 1st of November at eight o’ clock, a breakfast is offered to these little souls. At midday, the church bells ring again announcing the farewell of the muertos chiquitos. It’s time to change the white flowers in the offerings for the yellow cempasuchiles.
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At 7 o’clock in the afternoon, an ancient tradition that begins with the sound of the church bells ringing takes place: “The bell ringer hour” where the town children and adults gather in groups carrying bells. They visit the offerings in the houses of neighbors, relatives and friends while they sing: “A las ánimas benditas les prendemos sus ceritas. Campanero, mi tamal…” (To the blessed souls we light candles. Bell ringer, my tamale…) The people in the houses they visit, give the group tamales, sugar skulls, candy or fruit.

In the night there’s a contest of cardboard “calaveritas” (traditional mexican cultural expression) that includes satirical and funny elements in which the mexican creativity and sense of humor may be appreciated.

Día de Muertos. (All Souls’ Day)
The 2nd of November at 8 o’clock in the night the traditional Alumbrada (Watch) takes place in the town’s graveyard. The tombs are decorated carefully and with love, with different designs in which the ones of the Virgin or the Cross stand out. This designs are done spreading cempasuchitl petals.

All the graveyard is lit with thousands of candles, the copal smoke surrounds the faces of the people that has come to share with their death ones. The love and respect is the key element in this celebration.

Visiting the Church of San Andrés is to witness the encounter of two cultures. This temple is found in the middle of the town and was built in 1537 by augustinian friars. On february of 1932 it was declared an historical monument. This church, in particular, it’s worth visiting any time of the year.

The tzompantli that is found to the right of the atrium and that is put in this date, gives the church a different hue. During the prehispanic era, the tzompantli was a threat for the enemies. It was built with skulls impaled on stakes. Actually, these pierced skulls piled up one over other, still keep something of this threat. They make the visitor ask himself or herself which is the relation -if there’s one- with the sugar skulls or the Pan de Muerto in the offerings.

To all those who enjoy to “Pueblear” (small-town exploring), Mixquic is an obligated destiny: Its charm goes beyond All Souls’ Day. Its rich history goes back before the spanish conquest and there’s an arqueological site. The museum of San Andrés has in its collection pieces such as the figure of Mixquixtli (life and death goddess); the sculpture of a Chac-mool (the god’s messenger) and two rings of the prehispanic ball game.

It’s important to mention that the patronal celebration of San Andrés is the 30th of November.

How to get there:
In car: By the Periférico to Tláhuac avenue, follow the signals. By the highway from Mexico City to Puebla with direction to Chalco - Mixquic or in the entrance of the highway Mexico City to Puebla, take Eje 10 to Santa Martha - Mixquic.

There’s also public transportation to Mixquic. From the subway station Taxqueña (Blue Line) RTP buses with the route 149 leave to Mixquic’s downtown.

Where to eat and sleep:
You may stay in any Hostel or Bed & Breakfast at the south of Mexico City. Specially if you come only to visit Mixquic.

How to visit the graveyard:

It is very important to have respect for the people waiting near the tombs of their beloved ones. Take pictures without flash and always ask for their permission.

References:
-Secreta
ría de Turismo de la Ciudad de México.
-Delegación Tláhuac.
-CDI. Elementos de las ofrendas de muertos.
-Desarrollo Económico y Rural de Tláhuac.
-Día de Muertos en Mixquic.
-Berkeley University of California significado de la palabra Mixquic.
-Todo sobre la Ciudad de México.

Text Ernesto Durand
Photography Ernesto Durand

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© 2007-2009
Last information actualization: October 2007

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